How to do Your Own Makeup for Day & Night
Believe it or not, I am terrible at doing my own makeup. I’m decent at doing it for a friend, but when it comes to my own face, I never get it right. I have been wanting a step by step lesson for ages so I asked my London makeup artist, Emma Lovell, to show me how. One of my gorgeous school mum friends from my son Mosey’s class agreed to be the model (thank you, Kate!), and I learned so much. I hope it’s helpful for some of you!
Our Model
My friend Kate Skrypec was our model for the day, and Emma Lovell replicated the same makeup techniques she used for me in Venice. Scroll down to the bottom to see the amazing final results and the products used for each step!
Before you start: Skin prep
Before you start to think about applying makeup, it’s important to take good care of your skin by cleaning and moisturizing. These are vital steps that yield the best final results.
Before applying makeup, Emma always cleans the face and neck using a cleansing water and cotton pads.
Next, Emma pats moisturizer on Kate’s face and neck. Apply by dabbing a bit on a few key sections—the forehead, chin, cheeks—now rub the moisturizer in, rubbing upwards and moving from the center out. Emma spends a few minutes making sure she’s really blended the moisturizer into Kate’s skin. One of Emma’s many tips is to moisturize the entire neck, including the back; this keeps the front nice and taut! Don’t forget to always moisturize your lips using the lip balm of your choice.
Products Used
We can’t recommend washing your face and neck with the Clarisonic Blue Cleansing System enough. It’s rapidly become one of our must-haves with a marked improvement in our skin.
Daytime Makeup
Emma recreates the makeup she usually does for my daytime interviews and appearances.
Step 1: Foundation
When looking for the right foundation, try and match it to your neck rather than your face as you want your face color to blend seamlessly between the two.
Emma applies a few dabs of Jemma Kidd’s Light As Air Foundation to the forehead, nose, cheeks, and chin. Notice Emma puts the foundation on her hand first and uses her fingers to apply it and work it onto Kate’s skin. Always start from the center and work outwards.
Products Used
Step 2: Concealer
Emma puts some more concealer on her hand and uses a brush to apply layers under the eyes, on the chin, in the t-zone, and around the nose—in the winter, these are the places where people need the most coverage. As always, go slow, and don’t use it all up at once.
Products Used
Step 3: Curl the lashes
This is Emma’s one “don’t leave the house without it” must. Always, always curl your lashes. As Emma says, it wakes up your face.
Emma starts at the very root of the lashes and little by little “walks out” toward the ends.
Products Used
Step 4: Eyeshadow
Emma likes to use a creamy eyeshadow like the ones from Ellis Faas. She uses a brush to slowly apply the eyeshadow blending it into the socket line (but not all the way up to the eyebrows!). Don’t dab a lot on all at once. Build the color slowly and in layers. With a small brush, also add a tiny line of shadow under the eye.
Products Used
Step 5: Mascara
Emma puts a smudge of mascara straight onto her hands and uses a tiny, flat-ended brush to apply. She starts at the root and moves to the tip of each eyelash, making sure to define every single lash. Dark brown is great for rich, daytime color.
Emma now uses the Mascara brush to coat every single lash. Remember, work in layers and don’t overload your brush. The idea is to build up slowly!
Products Used
Jouer makes a Mascara that comes in a rich brown that Emma recommends for daytime makeup: Jouer Everyday Classic Wear Mascara
Step 6: Eyebrows
Another must that Emma insists on is filling in the eyebrows as it’s the best way to frame the face. Choose a color that is slightly paler than your natural color. Fill in your eyebrows in light feathery strokes, making sure to accentuate and elongate your features as much as possible.
Now, using a clean mascara wand (could be from an old makeup set that you’re not using anymore), brush out the hairs.
Products Used
Jouer Brow Definer comes in a variety of shades and with a mascara wand, which is a must for defining brows.
Step 7: Cheeks
Emma likes to use a cream blush for a daytime look. She uses her hands to dab it on the apple of Kate’s cheeks and then blends up and out.
Products Used
For the cream based daytime powder that Emma recommends, Paul & Joe’s is a good option. On Kate, Emma used a plum shade like “Marionette 01.”
Step 8: Lips
Emma always mixes lipstick to get exactly the color she wants. First she dabs Kate’s lips directly with the stick. Then, she mixes the colors directly on her fingers, alternating lipsticks, and applies directly on Kate’s lips.
Products Used
Step 9: Final Touches
Using a thick brush, dust the T-Zone with a loose setting powder. This sets the makeup and reduces shine.
TADA!
Kate’s Daytime look finished!
Products Used
Emma used EF|Studio Loose Setting Powder.
Transition into Night time
For my red carpet makeup in Venice, Emma only had 20 minutes to prepare, so she built on the daytime makeup she’d already done. Here’s how Emma transitioned on Kate.
Step 1: Eyeliner
Squeeze some liquid liner directly onto your hand and with a brush, apply to the very top of the eyelashes—starting from the middle of the eye and going out. Mix black and brown for a rich color. Use a slightly bigger brush or a Q-tip to blend.
Emma now draws a line with an eye pencil just above the line she’s made already with the liquid liner. Here you want to work across the eye, not just from the middle. Using a brush, blend and extend out.
Products Used
Jouer’s Shimmer Eyeliner comes in a great variety of colors.
EF|Studio Kohl Eye Pencil is a good option for night time makeup.
Step 2: Eyelashes
Now use the pencil and blend in right beneath the root of the lashes.
Emma used Lash Xtension Volume Mascara.
Ellis Faas’ Ellis Mascarais also highly recommended.
Use one coat of black mascara to make the eyes pop. As before, build slowly and in layers, from the roots to the ends. For a dewy eye look, put a bit more on the middle lashes (this rounds the eye).
Step 3: Lips
Use a lipliner that is one shade darker than the lipstick of your choice. Be sure that your pencil is nice and sharp. Start with the cupid’s bow of the lips, then the bottom lip and slowly extend out to the sides.
When you use lip liner, rather than using your fingers, it’s good to use a small, flat brush to apply lipstick for precision’s sake.
This one’s been passed on for generations: Use a tissue to blot. Finish up with a dab of lip gloss. Emma uses her fingers for this, too.
Products Used
Jouer makes a good lipliner – Lip Definer
Emma used the EF Studio Lip color palette (specifically the L102 palette) for Kate’s lips.
Step 4: Cheeks
Dab a tiny bit of light shimmer at the very top of the cheekbone and on the end of the brow. Blend in.
Under the cheekbone add a bit of shading with a darker powder. Use an angled brush to apply. This adds contour and makes Kate’s face look chiseled. Finish again with a light dusting of powder.
Products Used
Jemma Kidd’s Dual Illuminator Crème Highlighter & Shimmer Dust is good for adding those subtle touches of shimmer at the top of the cheekbone.
Step 5: And to really liven up the look …
Emma dabs shimmery eye shadow on the center of Kate’s eyelid. Emma says there’s nothing worse than a dry-looking eye! This shimmer makes Kate look glistening.
Products Used
Finished!
Kate is looking beautiful and ready for her night out.
Note: Brushes
Brushes are most definitely a worthwhile investment. To make them last, Emma washes her brushes after each use with a 2-in-1 shampoo & conditioner and leaves them to dry on a towel each night.
The Prettiest Blush and Bronzers
for Right Now
Our favorite time to conjure a careless, summery, just-back-from-Sardinia vibe is when the mood is decidedly…not careless and summery: A gleamy suggestion of sun is perhaps at its most appealing when we’re curling up on the couch in plush sweaters, sipping mugs of soul-warming hot drinks.
All it takes is a great shade of blush and a bit of luminizing bronzer. This is not a one-size-fits all situation, it should be noted: Deeper skin tones benefit from deeper shades of rouge (pale pink smoothed into dark skin shows up chalky, while intense red can be too much drama on someone pale). Bronzer, too, is best when shade-matched: Warm golds—and rose golds—blend most beautifully into dark skin tones, while cooler shades of bronze light up fairer skin. That said, play around and see what color makes your own skin sing.
Start with gorgeous blush—makeup artists recommend smoothing it at the apples of the cheeks, then blending it upward at a slight angle toward the temples for a lifting effect. Once you’ve worked it into skin, blend a little bronzer over the top, anywhere the sun would naturally hit. It’s easy to control the intensity of any of these lush formulas, since each can be layered; start with less, and layer as you need.
DARK
BALMYARD BEAUTY
BABY LOVE BALM LIP + CHEEKgoop, $32Baby Love from Balmyard is pigmented enough to bestow tawny and deep skin with a gorgeous flush (and definitely lends medium-ish people luster); dab it across cheeks, and on the lips too.JUICE BEAUTY
PHYTO PIGMENTS FLASH LUMINIZERgoop, $32A few sweeps of Juice Beauty Phyto Pigments Flash Luminizer in Golden Bronze across the cheeks and cupid’s bow—is addictively glow-bestowing.
MEDIUM
ILIA
MULTI-STICKgoop, $34At last from Ilia is a not entirely red, not entirely pink pale vermillion that’s fantastic on mid-range skin tones.ILIA
ILLUMINATORgoop, $34Maintain a summer glow or dewy shine year-round with these muliti-use, rose hip oil-spiked formulas. To use, sway as you would a powder bronzer and remember to blend.
PALE
TATA HARPER
LIP AND CHEEK TINTgoop, $36The faint but cheery pink of Tata Harper Lip and Cheek Tint in Very Charming is super sheer and creates the perfect, natural-but-prettier flourish.BEAUTYCOUNTER
COLOR CONTOUR MATTE BRONZERgoop, $39This hydrating, antioxidant powder creates an ultra-flattering sun-kissed glow. For all-over radiance, brush it wherever the sun would hit, at the tops of cheekbones, browbones, forehead, and chin.
BONUS: FOR ALL SKIN SHADES
RMS Beauty Pop Collection bronzer and blush palette has tints, bronzer, and luminizer—mix them to enliven any complexion.RMS BEAUTY
POP COLLECTIONgoop, $44
Ask Jean: A Flattering Blackberry Stain?
We want to answer your most pressing questions—or, you know, just the things that you’re curious about. Please keep them coming to: feedback@goop.com. Below, a q for our beauty director, Jean Godfrey-June.
I love the way vampy, wine-colored lipsticks look on other people for fall, but I hate the visible texture of lipstick. I would love a darker stain that really lasts—and is also non-toxic. Is there such a thing?—Nadia S.
Dear Nadia, The ultimate lip stain—clean or not clean—is Balmyard Baby Love. It’s the perfect there-not-there texture, with the tiniest bit of sheen, beautiful translucence, and a gorgeous color that balances sexily right between violet, ruby, and just-in-from-the-cold pink.
You can build the color to intensify it; whether a single swipe or several, it lasts for hours. For me, queen of the no-lip lip with relatively pale skin, it’s very evening, very full-on drama. For most, even slightly more adventurous people, I suspect it will be perfect for day as well as night (it is a good date color, for sure). It’s full of hibiscus and coconut oil, so it feels incredible on, and comes in a chic black pot (the Tennessee-Williams-set box it comes in has to be the best beauty packaging of all time, full stop).
If your skin tone is darker and the Baby Love is thus not deep enough on you to make the burgundy-for-fall impression, use a lipstick—in this case, Kosas Darkroom—to make a stain: Smooth it onto your lips, then blot with a tissue until all you have left is deepest see-through color.
Balmyard Beauty
Baby Love Balm Lip + Cheek Tintgoop, $32This sexy, just-bitten lip-and cheek-color gets its gorgeous pigment from Caribbean hibiscus; the color is buildable from sheer flush to deep stain. Made with deeply nourishing coconut oil and cocoa butter, it’s also super moisturizing.
Kosas
Weightless Lip Colorgoop, $28These hydrating, everyday-wearable lipsticks are made with organic oils and botanical extracts (antioxidant green tea, rosehip, grapeseed, and collagen-boosting sweet orange), plus deeply hydrating mango and shea butters. The eight universally-flattering shades are perfect everyday lip colors; depending on your style, they range from full-on dramatic to subtle and natural. No matter which one you choose, it’ll instantly compliment and brighten a natural complexion.
Master Class: Concealer
A judicious bit of concealer is the ultimate no-makeup makeup trick: Get it right, and most people will find they don’t really need foundation at all. The key to remember is the “bit” part: Whether it’s a blemish or dark circles, you only need concealer on that exact spot to make your skin look instantly clearer and your dark circles practically invisible, so the natural freshness and glow of real skin becomes the focus.
1. Tap on a bit of under eye cream, concentrating the most product at the outer corners of your eyes. This is a trick practically every makeup artist we’ve ever met insists on. “Eye cream helps plump and temporarily fill in lines—it does half the job so that you can use less concealer,” says LA makeup artist Jenna Anton, who did the makeup here. The delicately-whipped mix of aloe, olive butter, and peptides in Perfecting Eye Cream from goop by Juice Beauty is brilliant for this purpose: It sinks in instantly and leaves skin plumped, supple, and super-hydrated.
goop by Juice Beauty Perfecting Eye Creamgoop, $90
The Perfecting Eye Cream deeply hydrates, soothes, and firms the delicate eye area, visibly reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Richly emollient, it increases elasticity and plumps skin for a more youthful appearance. Formulated with olive butter, sandalwood nut oil, and powerful peptides, this high-tech formula delivers immediate and ongoing results.
NOTE: No cream is necessary for blemishes, but the rest of the steps are the same, no matter what you’re concealing.
2. Swipe a bit of concealer with your brush; dab it onto side of your hand—the warmth of your skin will melt the concealer a bit so it’s easier to apply.
“Un” Cover-Up from RMS is made with coconut oil, so it melts in easily and does its work practically invisibly.
RMS Beauty “Un” Cover-Upgoop, $36
This moisturizing and healing cover-up smoothes blemishes and blends easily, leaving flawless skin behind.
NOTE RE: SHADES: Anton says to match concealer to skin. “The lighter the concealer shade, the more like “makeup” it looks on skin,” she says.
3. Pick up concealer again with brush; apply ONLY to dark spots/areas you want to conceal, nowhere else.
4. Blend by tapping at the applied-concealer lightly with your ring or middle finger. The key is to PAT—don’t rub! When you rub, you simply move the concealer off of what you want to conceal, and onto a different part of your face (a surefire way to quickly develop a caked-on look, as you’re then forced to reapply over the spot you want to conceal). Tap so lightly that it seems totally ineffective—for a minute, it will seem like it’s not going to blend, and then suddenly you’ll just look like you no longer have under-eye circles.
3 Totally Wearable, Chic-for-Right-Now Lip Colors
Despite the summery vibe at goop HQ in LA, we’re all buying sweaters and longer sleeved dresses, waiting for the random day of less-Southern-Californian weather to wear them. Meanwhile, we’re scratching the fall itch with some really fantastic new lip colors, to help put us in a new-season mood even when it’s still a little scorching. Here, three office favorites—modeled by three office favorites.
ATM ANTHONY THOMAS MELILLO SCHOOLBOY CREW TEE, GOOP, $85;NILI LOTAN CLASSON JACKET, GOOP, $925
Kosas
Weightless Lip Color, Thrillistgoop, $28A vibrant poppy red with a hint of bright orange, this full-coverage lipstick is chicly semi-matte, yet manages to deeply hydrate with luxurious organic oils, moisturizing botanical extracts, plus mango and shea butters.
“I tend to stick to a pretty neutral palette (lots of white, black, and grey—with the occasional pop of tan), which means that lipstick often ends up being my sole source of color; this red is particularly striking because it skews more orange than pink. The fall moment I look forward to all summer is matching a bold lip with a blazer and classic pair of blue jeans—it just never gets old.”—KATE WOLFSON, DEPUTY EDITOR
CO WOOL CASHMERE CABLE KNIT SWEATER, GOOP, $895
ILIA Lipstick, In My Roomgoop, $26
A soft, wear-it-constantly pink/brown that works for practically every skin tone, this semi-matte lipstick feels fantastic going on, lasts beautifully, hydrates like crazy, and finishes any look with cool polish.
“I’m typically shy to wear makeup, but this shade adds just the right amount of color and texture. It goes with everything—I’m always in denim and long sweaters—and gives a boost of confidence, without feeling overdone.”—JACQUELINE SCHULZE, ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS
3.1 PHILLIP LIM SHORT-SLEEVED GATHERED BLOUSE, GOOP, $350
Balmyard Beauty
Baby Love Balm Lip + Cheek Tintgoop, $32This sexy, just-bitten lip- and cheek-color gets its gorgeous pigment from Caribbean hibiscus; the color is buildable from sheer flush to deep stain. Made with deeply nourishing coconut oil and cocoa butter, it’s also super moisturizing.
“I’m not a big lipstick wearer, but I love the look of this plum-y, hydrating balm with a crisp white shirt. You can build the color gradually, depending on whether or not you want a statement lip or just the slightest hint of shine—it’s pretty foolproof.”
No comments:
Post a Comment